@nytpu I would say:
1. You must have a temperature-controlled soldering station, a cheap iron will _not do_.
2. Watching a few videos on soldering iron tip maintenance was helpful. I bought some tip conditioner/tinner and found it very helpful. I also bought one of those foil-ball tip cleaners that you stab quickly to remove excess solder, which was helpful.
3. You'll need pictures of finished boards sometimes, as the instructions, when they exist at all, are not very good. That said, the parts are usually unambiguous - if there is more than one type of resister in a board kit, the board will usually specify which one to use where.
4. Double-check your placements before soldering, because both of my errors were making mistakes I couldn't undo. Desoldering from a board with a broad copper ground plate is very hard without damaging the silkscreen or sockets..
5. Use lead-free solder - large projects like this end up making lots of waste solder dust if using the foil amd bobbles anyway, not safe to handle if using toxic metals.
6. The socket rails on the backplate are very hard to solder in straight. I used a method where you pin them together with header rows but I ended up having sockets that were all a little askew. There's not much clearance between boards so this is a problem. I suggest that this is an annoying thing that's worth doing very carefully.
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